For the autumn-winter 2016 Christian Dior haute couture collection, Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux return to the source, the building blocks of the home: the ateliers. Symbolically, their collection is presented in the couture salons of 30 Avenue Montaigne-an intimate placing for a collection focused on the knowledge and superlative craftsmanship of Dior’s ateliers, the poetry of their do the job.
The Bar match, the essence of Dior, may be the principal inspiration. Like the defeating of a center, it punctuates the entire collection. But the inspiration goes beyond form, the signature silhouette of hourglass coat and total skirt, encompassing every part of the Bar. Therefore the entire collection is definitely in the initial palette, brilliantly contrasting dark-colored and white.
Black and white keeps a particularly crucial place for Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux. The blend is the most elemental representation of duality: masculine and feminine, history and modernity. The designers also start to see the comparison as a metaphor of their individual marriage, how through the dynamics of difference a complete higher than the individuals is established, working together to discover a harmonious equilibrium: two perspectives being one.
Monsieur Dior himself adored the juxtaposition of the two: “White,” he said, “is easy, pure and complements everything,” while declaring, “I could write a complete book about black”. Such sartorial rates nourished the monochrome palette of the fabric and prints, the latter reminiscent of a mid-century couture photograph by Horst or Penn come to life. Like a painting by Picasso when he chose monochrome over color to better focus on composition, the collection turns into a report in form and shape.
Indeed it’s the Bar’s structure that’s also reinterpreted. Meier and Ruffieux started with the skirt, experimenting with pleating and draping at night dresses and long skirts. Their linings, layers of organza to add body, become garments within their own proper, like X-rays of archive garments. THE BRAND NEW Look’s volumes are created lighter, more sophisticated: it’s the spirit of the atelier flou fulfilled by the atelier tailleur. The jacket itself is usually deconstructed, either elongated at the basque, or drawn in vertically and gathered, adding computer animation and movement, a fresh appear, a Dior spirit.
The simply colour, the single embellishment, is sculptural gold embroidery, inspired by the works of César and Claude Lalanne, a nod to Art Brut. Jean Cocteau explained Dior as, “This nimble genius specific to your age, whose magical name combines God and gold [Dieu and or]”. Gold accents the collection, adding emphasis: the embroideries happen to be worn like jewellery. For the display, the Dior salons had been also jewelled, protected with gilded panels, as the jewellery collection echoes the embroideries’ sculpted forms and asymmetric application.
Everything here celebrates the incomparable knowledge of the Dior ateliers, the foundation of all beauty.

Image Soure