Erdem Moralioglu uses terms like politeness and control to define his design signature, however the rhythm of his selections also points to a clear, almost violent contact and response. Where Planting season was all cool, managed blue, Erdem’s latest pre-collection was distinguished by volcanic splashes of orange. True, the signature politeness was there in a pleated, strapless gown with a boned bodice-its ideal components a dry martini and just a little light jazz on the hi-fi-or the dark-colored lace twinset, or the costume that masterfully matched a high-waisted pencil skirt to a draped, three-quarter sleeve blouse (that combination of framework and drape is normally a new fascination for the custom). But saved on Erdem’s mood board were some small images of Jeanne Moreau, the French actress whose mixture of twinsetted bourgeois decorum and knife-in-the-again wantonness electrified uptight viewers back in the days of black-and-white. Those photos were a far more meaningful signpost to the essence of the collection.